… you can adjust the sails … that’s a good motto for life but for a sailor there is also the other option …. to change the destination !
The trip to Lundy was frustrated by the wrong winds – not strong as such but coming from the wrong direction to round Lands End and have the prospect of sheltering in the very limited anchorage close in to the island.
So instead I spent a lovely time in Falmouth where I was joined by Ruth for some National Trust garden visits and walking. On my return passage from Falmouth I visited Fowey, the Yealm (Newton Ferrers), Salcombe and Dartmouth and overall I enjoyed some more good sailing and walking.
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I’ll post a link below to a video of that trip but mostly I wanted to share with you the latest voyage of Thalmia to the Scillies in June/July. Always a favourite – I think Ruth and I have been there 8 times now – firstly on Amelie a 26ft Sadler and now on Thalmia.
This video is just 16 minutes long but I managed this time to fly my drone a little which gives some new perspectives on familiar places. Given the size of the archipelago and the fact that planes and helicopters frequently fly in to the islands I found some of the areas don’t allow drone flights. The drone has the intelligence built in to prevent you flying in certain areas and advising if you get close to these zones.
Here it is – there will be a brief follow up video in a few weeks because the return trip from Scilly was challenging but interesting! https://youtu.be/j4YpO5EoRD0
Not just some well known lyrics but an actual dilemma for cautious sailors like me. Visiting Lundy island was one of the joys I had to forego on my round Britain trip in 2021 as the weather, or more particularly the winds, were not right for the very limited anchorage on the island. Last year did not work out either so – will it be in ’23?
Lundy Island Archive Photo
I’ve carved out a window of opportunity (and a blessing from Ruth) starting this week for a few weeks and I’m setting off, hopefully on Thursday, to see if the weather is going to be kind to me this time. I have to say the long range forecasts are not very encouraging. There are many different weather models and even a couple of weeks out they don’t agree. So I’m just hoping and keeping everything crossed!
The plan is to sail to Falmouth via Salcombe and then reevaluate. In the worst case scenario I’ll chill out in Falmouth and loiter back home via the charming ports and harbours along this part of our “sceptred isle”. If that’s the worst case scenario I can’t complain!
If I’m lucky it’ll be St Ives, then Padstow, then Lundy, then whatever! Ruth is going to come onboard (when I’m not sailing) so either in Falmouth or Padstow. Sailing singlehanded is something I really like – the sun on your face and the wind in your hair (???) – but being together enhances the pleasure of spending time in beautiful locations.
And later this summer it will be back to the Scillies again to relive the memories:
A firm favourite for the sailor in me. For Ruth it will be a short flight in a small plane to a glorious archipelago which we will enjoy as we relax and unwind. Oh and some sun will be appreciated!
As ever I’ll update this blog in due course and post something on YouTube (Voyages of Thalmia). I’m looking forward to using the drone a bit more this year so look out for even more stunning images of the Southwest.
For Thalmia and I it has been a great year for sailing. Crossing the Channel in May to Guernsey, Sark, Jersey, St Malo and up the river Rance to Dinan. Then the Scillies in June where Ruth and I revisited many of our favourite spots over a lovely two week holiday on board Thalmia. We often move anchorages together but this year Ruth was happy for us to sail (or motor?) offshore outside St Agnes close to Annet in search of the puffins that roost there. In the event we only saw one!
It was a long dry summer but …..
In the school holidays family joined me on day trips. Mostly we stayed warm and dry – except when we took the dinghy ashore off Exmouth and got heavily ‘damp’ rowing (and being pushed by a swimming Rob) against breaking waves!
Then later in the year I turned left out of the Exe and met family in Poole including taking my nephew out for a lovely sail. He has been dipping his toes in this sailing passion! Maybe he will get truly immersed!
And then playtime! ….
On this trip I was able to “play” with a new drone for additional sailing footage. It’s quite OK flying it from land, although sending it far out over water was initially a bit daunting. The really nervous bit, though, was launching it from the boat at anchor and recovering it into my hand and not into the sea!!! So far it has worked! Next year I’ll have to decide if I’m brave (or silly!) enough to fly and recover it while sailing the boat single (or no) handed! Mmmmm!
Anyway, as well as the new drone I’m also getting quite technical with a free version of some professional video and sound editing software – DaVinci Resolve. As a way of learning the software (with lots of YouTube tutorials) I have reworked some of my existing videos from 2022 into a very short (9½ minute) highlight run through with some effects. I hope you enjoy it!
Having had the standing rigging (that’s the SS wires that hold the mast upright!) on Thalmia replaced when she was laid up in October I don’t have a lot of new work to do on her over winter. But there will be lots I will find to do as we get closer to Spring!
Wishing you all a happy new year with fair winds and following seas!
July and August were quieter sailing months. Family took precedence. Thalmia and I did join in a “race” to Dartmouth in August. There was very little wind so the challenge was getting there under sail power only! We managed it, singlehanded, including a fair stretch with the cruising chute – drawing well!
I had hoped to set sail on a longer passage when the schools were back and the marinas and harbours were quieter and perhaps even go around Lands End again and visit places along the North Cornwall and Devon coasts and South Wales. The weather, however, after such a long settled period over the summer, turned against us! Maybe next year?
I did, however, get away, but changed down a gear to visit two of my favourite, but local, harbours, setting out on the Thursday and returning on the Saturday. A great downwind sail took us to Salcombe and up to an anchorage below the Salt Stone at the opening to Frogmore Creek. (Fun fact – strictly speaking, Salcombe estuary isn’t technically an estuary but a Ria – a tidal inlet with no major fresh water source flowing through it!)
Here was a chance to play with the newly acquired drone! If only I had had this with me in the Western Isles of Scotland last year!
Looking South from the Salt Stone
Frogmore Creek
The following day, a short but demanding sail past Prawle Point and Start Point brought me part way back, to Dartmouth, and a convenient mooring buoy at Dittisham – a quiet location away from the hustle and bustle of Dartmouth and opposite Greenway Quay: Greenway being the National Trust property that was once the holiday home of Agatha Christie.
I used to pass this way frequently when I stored my previous boat, over winter, at Baltic Wharf, Totnes. The upper reaches of the Dart towards Totnes provide spectacular scenery if you are lucky enough to take a boat trip up here.
Then an early morning start on the Saturday was needed to get back to the Exe and Starcross Yacht Club before the arrival of the depression (meteorological not personal!) and associated strong winds.
I’d like to think Thalmia and I might manage another excursion before laying up in October – perhaps turning left out of the Exe – but that will depend heavily on favourable winds.
Here is a link if you want to see more of the voyage and locations and my early forays into drone videos! https://youtu.be/jxTOnkg3FEA
As always, the Scillies did not disappoint. The weather was not as sparkling as we have enjoyed in the past and it was quite breezy on some days. But it was worth the slog to get there.
I visited Tresco and St Mary’s while waiting for Ruth to arrive. We then spent a very pleasant 2 weeks: taking a trip out to Annet, looking for puffins, visiting the islands of St Agnes, Gugh, Bryher, Tresco, Tean, and St Martins. Walking a lot, eating well on board and ashore … and relaxing.
A yachtsman’s delight!
It was very breezy for a few days with attendant swell and Thalmia bumped a bit as she ‘took the ground’ on quite firm sand which can be disconcerting (sorry Ruth!) but she’s strongly built and no damage was done.
One day we had serious rain. We used a trip boat to visit St Martins and got thoroughly soaked walking around the North of the island before enjoying a delicious lunch and drink at the Seven Stones and drying out afterwards in a bright and breezy afternoon.
Most boats seemed to manage the breezy weather quite well and for those who do their research and have the right equipment there is always somewhere safe to anchor even if it gets a bit uncomfortable. However there were a couple of unfortunate boats whose holding was not good enough for the conditions and one very unfortunate boat came unstuck – literally!
My return passages were less hurried than getting there. Scilly to Helford, Falmouth, Plymouth, Salcombe and back to the Exe. At the start I motored more than I had hoped for but once departed from Falmouth the motor was off most of the way, including a long stretch goosewinged with a poled out Genoa, a preventer on the main and the autohelm keeping the boat on a steady angle to the true wind for quite relaxed downwind sailing.
I’ve published a short YouTube video of the 4 week trip – it’s 15 mins long if you want to see more!
With school holidays I’ll be limiting my sailing over the next few weeks to day sails with family or in club races (nothing too serious I assure you!) . Then, maybe, there will be another sailing adventure later? We’ll see!
Old age should burn and rave at close of day; Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
It’s been two years that we haven’t “done” the Isles of Scilly. First the pandemic, then last year was consumed by my circumnavigation of the wider Isles of Britain – well some of them!
After my trip across the channel to the Channel Islands and France in company with two other boats I had two weeks on land before packing things back onto Thalmia for this trip.
It was a sprint not a marathon! I saw a weather and tidal window to cross to the Scillies on Tuesday morning: left Sunday morning and went flat out to make it. Two days of 12 hours sailing – well some sailing each day but lots of motoring too with light winds but mostly from the wrong direction – then a final shorter sail / motor starting from Newlyn at first light (that was 05:00!) but getting to Scilly by lunchtime (knackered!).
On the Sunday I was escorted for a while by a pod of dolphins
and on the Monday I had the company of a brace of warships (i.e. 2) – not sure of the collective noun for these big fellas!
The strong southwesterly winds, which I had been keen to be ahead of, meant I took shelter in a very pleasant anchorage on the east side of Tresco in Old Grimsby Harbour – beside the Old Blockhouse, if you know the area. Its been sunny some of the time but it’s also been a bit dreich on and off and blustery with F4-5 W/SW winds and gusts up to 30+ knots “with exposure” as Carol Kirkwood would say!
After sheltering in Old Grimsby for a bit I have moved to Watermill Cove in the NE of St Mary’s with the SW winds continuing but abating a little. It’s a gem of an anchorage – why haven’t I been here before? I went ashore for a walk to one of the best preserved examples of the “entrance graves” which are unique to Scilly according to English Heritage. Oh and there is a massive rope swing nearby (and I mean massive – just visible in the photo). There was no one around so I became a 71 year old child for a moment!
Dylan Thomas – I’m raging!
I’m now eagerly waiting for Ruth to join me here (by plane!) on Monday and I’m also eagerly awaiting some more settled weather for her benefit as much as mine.
Early May and it was time for an early voyage! Eventually 3 boats set off from Starcross Yacht Club in company. The original plan was to sail to Brixham and leave the following morning for a daylight crossing. However with stronger winds forecast we made a late decision to go overnight.
Resting before the crossing!
Sailing singlehanded overnight including across the shipping lanes (Traffic Separation Scheme – TSS) was a challenge. Through the night it became choppy with swell. All skippers suffered some level of seasickness; fortunately for me I was just a bit queazy – others needed buckets! Interestingly, crossing the TSS adds something to focus on and prevent boredom during a 13-14 hour nighttime passage!
An episode not covered in any depth on the video which is linked below was the taking down of the mast on one of the yachts. “Willow” was going to be taken through the canals in Brittany and helping its owner lower the mast to store it at head height to get under all the bridges was part of our reason to choose to come to Saint Malo and Dinan again. We paid for an hours use of a DIY crane in Saint Malo marina. It was not enough time and our lack of proficiency showed! Fortunately we were helped out eventually by some very friendly French people and a marina official!
Anyway – enough of the introduction. I have prepared a short (20min) video which I have posted on YouTube. After a short section on Guernsey, Sark and Jersey it focuses particularly on the trip through the hydroelectric “Barrage de La Rance” and up the river Rance which becomes a canal and can be navigated by yacht up to Dinan. From here the bridges are low hence the need to lower the mast on Willow.
In St Peter Port Barrage de La RanceFishing stations The Rance canalDinan
Hard to believe that it was 12 months ago that I set off on my solo round Britain circumnavigation! What might this year have in store? Check out my latest short YouTube video!
I prepared some videos and posted these on YouTube. Initially these were for my benefit, to be able view my video and photographic memories on a big TV screen over the winter months and in years to come. I did however post some links to these on Facebook and a couple of web forums and some of you have already followed the link. I am posting the link here as I’m happy to share it with you all, especially those of you who have been so kind to support me and the charity Rainbow Living.
I am pleased to be able to report that the total raised, including Gift Aid, is now over £5,000. Thank you!
You can find all 4 videos on my YouTube channel simply by searching on YouTube for “Voyages of Thalmia”. Take a look particularly at the trip through the Caledonian Canal where I was accompanied (and ably helped!) by Ruth, and the footage of some of the spectacular Western Isles – Muck, Skye, Canna, Jura and Islay with some wonderful anchorages. (Click or tap on an image below for a quick link to YouTube!)
I shall live in these memories for a long time! Thank you for sharing the trip with me.
It’s not only in comedy that timing is everything. I said I would arrive last Sunday at 17:30 and that’s when I arrived and was met by a cacophony of horns and cheers from family and friends at Starcross Yacht Club on the Exe.
First though I was met by our Cruiser Secretary and crew on board Kinfolk which was ‘dressed overall’. (This is a traditional sign of celebration with a continuous string of international maritime signal flags). They escorted me up the Exe estuary.
Then this:
What a welcome! I am so grateful for the reception and grateful too to so many of you who have followed my blog, posted encouraging comments, and made such generous donations to Rainbow Living. Thank you once again! Together with gift aid we have raised well over £4,000. And thank you Ruth …. for letting me go off on my own for three months to realise this dream!
When I started this challenge I quoted Shakespeare’s Brutus: “There is a tide in the affairs of men which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune … “
I am so glad that at 70 years old I seized this opportunity to realise a dream. If I hadn’t I might have regretted it for the rest of my life!
Back on terra firma I now have much to reflect on, photos and videos to review, and many wonderful memories of places, people and experiences that will stay with me for years to come. It has been an amazing journey and I am so lucky to have completed it and enjoyed it. I think my face says it all!
A Shakespearen “comedy” is a play that has a happy ending. I’m relieved that this adventure had a successful and happy ending and was neither a “Comedy of Errors” nor a “tragedy”!
Calm seas and settled weather meant I could anchor in Carbis bay off the harbour at St Ives. Although Thalmia could take the ground, and in settled conditions like this settling on the hard sand in the harbour would have been ok, I wanted to start early the following day, at low water, to round Lands End and be able to carry a fair tide around the Lizard and hopefully as far as Falmouth so I needed to stay afloat.
A calm evening at St Ives
The plan worked. To avoid the worst of the anticipated foul tide at the start of my passage I motor-sailed inshore. Then, approaching Lands End, I was surprised to find stronger winds than predicted. In F4/5 I put a reef in the main. Sailing, but with the motor idling as a safety precaution, I passed inside the Longships rocks and lighthouse off Lands End and inside the curiously named Kettle’s Bottom. I had rounded this Southwest extremity of mainland England and returned to familiar cruising grounds!
Inside Longships and Kettle’s BottomLands End from seawardStrong Currents!
I passed the just inside the Runnel Stone South Cardinal Mark, which is where I normally begin my crossing to the Scillies, and then the Lizard. This area was littered with buoys marking lobster pots which are almost or actually hidden from view as they are dragged under by the fast flowing currents. It’s a real hazard especially for a singlehanded sailor trying to manage the boat and keep a watch for the buoys. I know I only narrowly missed a couple that suddenly appeared! It’s like “where’s Wally” on the water!
Spot the buoy!
From the Lizard to Falmouth I carried a fair tide and after over 11 hours passage I anchored in Channal Creek in the Fal estuary, below Trelissick House. One of my favourite anchorages.
After a days rest including a visit to the gardens of Trelissick House and a swim from the boat I moved to St Mawes near the mouth of the Fal estuary where I anchored for the night. It was another hot night and the next day was still and hot so I left earlier than planned to generate some breeze under motor out at sea. I set a course for Salcombe and relaxed as the iron mainsail plodded on and Jake, my autohelm, took me close by the Eddystone lighthouse and into Salcombe. Another favourite anchorage at the Salt Stone well beyond the madding crowd of yachts, motor cruisers, speeding ribs and noisy holidaymakers in the town.
The Eddystone Lighthouse – 9nm off Rame HeadSunset at the Salt Stone, Dartmouth
In Dartmouth I met some fellow sailors from Starcross Yacht Club – Willow (briefly passed them while sailing up river!) who have just returned from the Channel Islands, and Sirene of Exe at Stoke Gabriel, a delightful spot which I visited and loved – especially impressed with the amazing 1400 year old yew tree in the church yard. Windfall was here too but we missed each other!
I will be coming back into the Exe on Sunday (25th July) after the strong winds and thunderstorms have passed (hopefully!) and Ruth has come down to Dartmouth to allow me to offload much of the heavy load of sailing gear and charts and books and the stuff I thought I might need over this 3 month plus expedition! I plan to arrive back at Starcross Yacht Club on Sunday between 17:00 and 18:00 on the incoming tide. I am looking forward so much to seeing some of my family and friends who will be there to greet me. Feel free to join them if you want!
So … one more push as well for Rainbow Living? Several of you have recently donated now my challenge is very nearly over. Including gift aid you have donated over £2,500. It would be so good to push this just a bit higher. Your support in following and commenting on my blog and in donating to the charity was a real encouragement through this adventure! You can donate via this link: https://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/voyagesofthalmia
I will probably post one more blog about my trip – the denouement (apologies for the French – it’s ‘the unravelling’!) with some reflections on the overall experience. Now however is not the time because it isn’t quite completed …… !
I had a moment of panic after I departed from Pwllheli when the autohelm alarm went off and the message “Drive lost” appeared! I pushed home the plug in the socket however and drive returned! I would hate to think of the implications of a failure in this my trusted crew member – especially on what was going to be a long passage south to either New Quay or Fishguard – a long way across Cardigan Bay. (The autohelm has the nickname Jake after a grandson who loves to helm when the family come out on the boat)
During the week there is often live firing at several floats within Cardigan Bay. Fortunately this was Sunday and no activity so I could make a bee line to my destination pegging a bit of foul tide at the start. The following day I heard several calls on the VHF radio coming from the firing range control asking boats to change course as they were either in or heading towards the line of fire!
Leaving Pwllheli on a smooth sea.
I arrived at Fishguard just as the tide was starting to turn against me but I had carried as much fair tide as I could have. Proper planning and preparation prevents (p) poor performance! The bracketed p is the navy version of the 7 p’s! I anchored outside the very picturesque Lower Town Harbour and motored the dinghy ashore. The next day was wet and windy but I found a short break in the weather to get ashore to do some shopping and get a delicous crab sandwich at the sailing club, later watching the Euros final on the iPad as the rain and wind returned.
A pleasant anchorage
A quiet night
A dismal day
A welcome distraction
A brief visit
A pretty harbour
Some boats are designed to “take the ground” : some are not!!
Local knowledge is very useful! Following the advice from the pilot book and the Reeds Almanac I set off prepared to stem the tide towards St David’s Head and round it at slack water. Maybe I was too close inshore but rather than 1.5 to 2 knots of foul current as predicted by the tidal atlas I found myself racing along towards Strumble Head at 6.2 knots! I turned the corner at the headland to hit some real foul currents and my speed over they ground slowed from 6.2 knots to 1 knot for a short while! We were of course at the top of Spring Tides! Slowly the speed picked up on the way to St David’s Head as the current abated as predicted.
I reached Ramsey Sound between St David’s and Ramsey Island at the turn of the tide and shot through at a fair lick of speed. Given the strong currents and narrow channel however, I gave the next narrow passage, Jack Sound, a miss and went outside Skomer Island, in through Broad Sound, and up to Milford Haven hitting 9.7 knots SOG along the way.
For those who rely on iPads and iPhones alone I have to report that while my chart plotter kept a close track on my position at all times, for a while in Ramsey Sound the smart devices didn’t update my position relative to the surrounding terrain and buoyage! Maybe they are not quite smart enough! Dolphins and puffins gave me some light relief along the way and the land/seascape was beautiful.
Milford Haven is quite industrial
Dale was a real contrast
So glad these fellas could join me on my passage!
An overnight stay at Dale at the entrance to Milford Haven allowed me to partly dry out and check my stern gear (remember that incident in Harwich with the rope cutter stopping the engine?) As far as I could tell all was secure and sound. I then hooked up to a visitors buoy away from the protected seagrass area. This allowed an easy early start for my passage to Padstow. A calm start changed into a big quartering swell as I closed in on the coast of Cornwall. A result of several days of northerly winds. Jake, my auto helm, took it all in its stride as the boat twisted and turned!
Now, however, the circle was beginning to close – I was back in the South West!
Ruth came up to Padstow to spend a day with me. The weather has been glorious and one day became two! A swim each day in Harbour Cove and F&C from the Stein – personally I’d prefer Harry Ramsdens or Simply Fish in Brixham! It’s heaving here with holidaymakers but the beaches are massive at low water so not crowded there. Being in the inner harbour is a bit like being in a goldfish bowl. I guess Thalmia now appears in lots of people’s holiday snaps! She’s quite photogenic!
Early morning before the crowds!Looking from Padstow to Rock across the Camel Estuary
I set off tomorrow towards Lands End. My last major headland. Headlands have been the biggest planning challenge on the west coast. The Reeds Almanac and my own tidal planning have confirmed a time to reach the tidal gate around the southwest tip of mainland England. It looks as if I am fortunate to have very benign conditions so it should be an easy passage. I may first spend a night at anchor in St Ives which can be a bit exposed and uncomfortable but again should be fine in these conditions. Thereafter I’m in familiar cruising grounds. According to the forecasts some easterlies are coming through which may hold me up for a day or two but in spite of this I should be back in the Exe with Thalmia on her mooring in about a week!
Voyages of Thalmia 