Solo for so long!

I came back around Mizen Head on Monday 17th June and it was rather nice seeing headlands, bays and harbours that were now familiar. Not the surprise element this time but like meeting old friends!

In very calm conditions, albeit with some leftover swell from the strong winds that had passed through, I mostly stayed close to the shoreline and steep cliffs.

I stayed a night in Schull (pronounced Skull!) and then to Sherkin Island next to Baltimore. This latter passage required careful navigation through rocky outcrops and small islands crossing Roaring Water Bay which even in relatively settled conditions lived up to its name. Although sailing I put the motor on through a couple of very narrow sections – just in case!

I stayed anchored off Sherkin Island (Thalmia is the one on the right) for 2 nights and using the tender I spent a day walking around this beautiful island which is home to many artists, musicians etc. I chatted with an old man who had been born and now lived alone in the small cottage where he exhibits his work.

I then spent nights in 2 harbours I had used before – Glandore and Kinsale – partly because they are convenient stopovers but also because they offered good eating or good walking or both!

I went into the lovely Barloge Cove but decided against staying at anchor – it is very very tight inside and being solo in what is not a small boat I erred on the side of caution!

The coastline along this section is actually very similar to south Devon and Cornwall – colourful and beautiful rather than dramatic.

The Old Head of Kinsale is rather like Portland Bill jutting out into the channel with south going eddies on both sides and overfalls further out. That’s how I played it. Slipping round the headland close in with a strong current under the boat.

In Kinsale I was visited by two Irish customs men. Heavy boots (!) and opening (almost!) every locker and storage area and checking boat and personal documents. They were very friendly though. I had a super yacht as a close neighbour. It would have taken them a long time to search that!

Youghal (Yawl!) is a town that has lots of history with town walls and some buildings well preserved. However here as elsewhere on my travels I’ve seen lots of derelict buildings crying out for development. This part of Ireland, although beautiful has not seen the investment we have seen on the UK south coast.

Youghal has 2 famous connections – sir Walter Raleigh lived here and owned lots of land. His house is privately owned with limited visiting opportunities but an hotel is named after him. And this is where Moby Dick was filmed! Before the age of computer graphics, green screens etc. local people transformed the place into a vast film set! The pub in the last picture is Moby Dicks.

Youghal to Kilmore Quay was my last passage in Ireland. The start of the day was fog bound – a real pea souper! Later however it lifted a bit and I managed to sail a bit. The chart plotters and AIS are good at showing other boats but looking for lobster pot buoys required using old fashioned eyeballs!

Kilmore Quay is a very busy fishing harbour but also has a well run marina, great fish shops and a characterful pub!

The dunes here are massive and run for miles – I just walked a bit of them.

I’m writing this blog post now I’m back in the UK. I’m in Dale near the mouth of the Milford Haven estuary. Soon to cross to Padstow where Ruth is planning to spend a few days with me.

I’ve been solo so long – met some lovely sailors and other people along the way – everyone has been so friendly, chatty and helpful. Now though, I’m looking forward to not being solo and spending time with my lovely wife who has been very tolerant in allowing this aging mini adventurer time to just do it!